What We Wore in '44
To make the Ration Challenge (find it in Related Posts!) a little more interesting, James and I endeavoured to dress the part, in vintage 1940s and 1940s-inspired outfits. This was a particularly cold week for London, so it was even more challenging to look good despite the weather.
Day 1
James: For a quick yet wet trip to the market I wore my brown leather work boots with my grandfather's World War II army trousers and field jacket. The trousers are a particular favourite of mine, mostly for their warmth. Additionally I wear the jacket frequently, and though the coarse wool is itchy this issue is easily solved by a long sleeve shirt.
At the turn of the 1930's the British Army began developing their uniform which had been in place since 1900. The earlier uniform, known as Service Dress was a combination of both Field and Dress uniforms, which consisted of formal trousers and long blazers. The uniform was created for desert campaigns and warmer climates. The long formal blazers also restricted movement. Before the outbreak of the Second World War, a uniform was implemented across the British army. The amended uniform took inspiration from ski suits. The short jacket I'm wearing was standard issue, designed to stay warm even when wet and allowed for greater movement especially within vehicles.
Shirt: Vintage - Handed down
Jacket: Vintage - Handed down
Trousers: Vintage - Handed down
Boots: Vintage - Handed down
Rucksack: Gifted
(No, I personally did not purchase any of what I'm wearing)
Jeordy: For our trip to the market in the unforgivingly drizzly weather of a Monday morning, I styled with function in mind over appearance. I chose my vintage Navy wool jumper, which is warm when you're in the outdoors, and breathable indoors. I paired it with my most comfortable vintage wool skirt, vintage wool socks, hardy paddock boots, and a vintage wool cape. The cape meant I had freedom of movement which I would have lacked if I had worn a bulky coat over my bulky sweater, and wasn't overbearingly warm in the market.
The paddock boots pull the overall price on the outfit up, but I've had them for years and they're so comfortable and durable as hell; I've traipsed through the ocean and clambered over mountains in them.
I threw my hair into a quick messy up-do concealed by a warm floral vintage Russian wool headscarf. It is very warm, effortless, and added some light and colour to the look.
~A note on leg-wear: Nylon stockings were probably the most sought-after clothing item throughout the war. Many women wouldn't have had a pair (unless they were bought on the black market) and numerous women found innovative ways of maintaining the fashionable illusion. Many an historian has told me the story of young women using gravy browning to paint on their seams, but eyeliner and a number of other methods and substances were used as well. Those who did have them would have worn them sparingly, to make them last. Women began wearing more socks, and knitted stockings became 'fashionable' winter-wear. Whether they were actually fashionable is questionable, but they were warm and attainable.~
Sweater: Vintage - FatFacedCatShop (£15)
Skirt: Vintage - Gifted
Socks: Vintage - Thrifted ~($2)
Boots: Ariat Paddock Boots ($99)
Headscarf: Vintage - Thrifted (£1)
Cape: Vintage - FatFacedCatShop (£15)
Estimated Total: £103/$144 Estimated Total (- shoes): £32/$45
Day 2
James: On our second day, we didn't let the war get in the way of our studies and headed to the British Library. I wore a three piece blue checked suit, which fits well with the period's aesthetic. The rain called for a period style trench coat from London Fog who supplied the US navy during World War II. Carrying our precious and very not vintage laptops was a vintage satchel.
Trench coats such as this have had a long history within the military. Thomas Burberry was one of the first to develop Trench Coats and supplied Ernest Shackleton with coats on his arctic expedition. Burberry also supplied British troops with trench coats in The First World War. The Trench coat remained in use for offices during World War II and were developed by other nations such as Germany, France, Russia, Poland and the U.S Navy. Though the Trench Coat was deemed too impractical for the fighting of World War II, it became popular again after the war. Their original role among offices in the war gave them a businesslike respectability.
I wore the suit with a plain white shirt, as the dyes to make coloured fabrics would not have been readily available. I finished the outfit off with a burgundy knitted tie and golden pocket watch and chain.
Coat: London Fog (Jeordy's)
Suit: Cavani
Satchel: Vintage - handed down
Shirt: Charles Tyrwhitt
Tie: Vintage - Handed Down
Pocket Watch and chain: Vintage
Jeordy: A bit put out by how drab Day 1's outfit was, I was eager to brighten it up a little. For our trip to the British Library I covered up with the warmest of my coats, a repurposed navy-blue wool 1940s number. It has brass buttons and relatively subtle 'American-esque' embellishments (a gold star on the collar and a golden eagle on the arm pocket) which I consider fun and not patriotic to the point of embarrassment.
To keep my head warm I wore another Russian wool scarf, this time as more of a hood. People were expected to cover their heads in public long into the 20th century, which was difficult when hats were expensive! This necessity softened during the war, and the government even went so far as to request that churches not bar hatless women from services. Even so, I endeavoured to cover my head not only for that period look, but also for warmth.
One of my favourite timeless hairstyles is the braid-crown, or milkmaid braids. It's very simple, doesn't need any primping throughout the day, and is an excellent resource for me considering that my hair is simply too long for the iconic 1940s brush-out! My glasses are vintage from the 1940s, and therefore meant I didn't need to strain my eyes wearing contacts all week.
I decided to wear my Cardinal Red vintage 1940s dress. It's sleeveless and not naturally warm (a durable cotton) so it was necessary to pair it with my multicoloured vintage 1940s wool jumper. For a slightly warmer alternative to ankle socks I wore a pair of thigh-high socks posing as knitted stockings. To finish off the look I wore my grey suede vintage heels.
Sweater: Vintage Etsy (~$25)
Dress: Vintage - Gifted
Stockings: Forever 21 (~$3)
Shoes: Vintage - Thrifted ($8)
Headscarf: Gifted
Earrings: Vintage - Handed down
Bag: Vintage (James' - handed down)
Coat: Vintage - Thrifted (~$25)
Estimated Total: £44/$61
Day 3
James: For yet another trip to the British Library, on a less rainy day, a large trench coat was not needed. I wore a double-breasted grey suit with a plain blue shirt and dark blue tie. My lack of richly coloured ties and shirts was an attempt to be more authentic. Though it is likely a double breasted suit would have been frowned upon during the war, as it used too much material, this suit gives a great period feel paired with brown two-tones.
Looking at some finer details, I wore this 1930's mother of pearl tie pin, to keep my tie in line as I leant over books in the library.
Suit: Cavani
Shirt: Charles Tyrwhitt
Tie: Charles Tyrwhitt
Shoes: Vintage - Handed Down
Tie pin: Vintage
Jeordy: For our second day at the library I styled myself with the 1940s 'working girl' in mind. Every vintage enthusiast knows that when women entered the workforce in WWII, they adopted the trousers men had worn for so many decades. It was a moral scandal at first, but as the practical outweighed the moral, women began to don them casually as well. I wore them with a standard white blouse (thanks Primark!) and my wonderful green tweed blazer. It is very 1940s, with its three metal buttons, limited pockets and feminine tailoring on a traditionally masculine item.
I accessorised with a vintage 1920s necklace, navy blue heels, James' satchel, and a stylish headscarf.
I used a vintage-inspired printed silk-effect scarf to achieve a slightly posh take on the classic 'Rosie the Riveter' look. I bobby-pinned it to my hair to keep it from slipping, and tied the ends in a stylish but understated bow.
Blouse: Primark (£6)
Trousers: Vivienne of Holloway (£59)
Shoes: Eurosoft (~$40)
Headscarf: Vintage, Thrifted ($7)
Earrings: Old Spitalfield's Market - Gifted
Necklace: Vintage - Gifted
Jacket: Vintage - Thrifted (~$15)
Estimated Total: £109/$151 Estimated Total (- shoes): £81/$111
Day 4
James: Day 4 was a work day. This darker outfit is a timeless 'worker' outfit that could be placed anywhere between 1850-1950. The greys and blacks are a mix of corduroy and tweed: warm and durable. I paired the darker colours with a red scarf for a touch of colour but also for warmth. Adding a tweed flat cap completed the vintage worker look.
The collarless linen shirt was an obvious choice. Collarless shirts have been popular amongst working class men throughout the ages. With the introduction of machinery in the Industrial Revolution factory workers took to no longer wearing ties in fear they may get them caught in machinery. Additionally the RAF wore collarless shirts with cravats, the reason for this being that any pilot bailing out of an aircraft into water could be strangled by their own collar shrinking.
Jacket: Reiss
Waistcoat: Charles Tyrwhitt (part of a suit)
Trousers: Vintage
Shirt: Vintage
Boots: Vintage - Handed Down
Hat: Handed Down
Jeordy: I gave myself serious Mobster vibes with this outfit, and I love it!
Day 4 I walked James to the bus for work, then bustled about the neighbourhood picking up a few items here and there while the sun was out.
The vintage cream wool coat is from the 80s. The 1980s and 1940s shared the adoption of traditionally masculine styles and cuts into women's fashion, especially with broad padded shoulders on coats and jackets. This coat is a little big on me, adding to the effect. The hat is James', but women wore similar styles. I styled the beautiful green silk vintage scarf so it not only kept my neck warm but added coy flair to the ensemble.
I adore this knitted blush coloured jumper from Primark. It's thin, but so easy to layer with blouses on chilly days and has an effortless vintage effect. I love the combination of the soft pink with the vibrant greens of this vintage 1940s skirt. In true 1940s style, it is a slim pencil skirt with no pleats or flaring, both of which take up valuable and expensive fabric. It's wool, making it relatively warm, durable, and easy to mend. I picked up this cute little burgundy belt at Vivian of Holloway when I bought my trousers. They were on sale for £5, and choosing from the myriad of colours was painfully difficult! For lipstick I dabbed on a light pinkish-red, which didn't require much maintenance but pulled the look together.
Blouse: Thrifted (£5)
Sweater: Primark (£6)
Skirt: Vintage - Handed down
Shoes: Thrifted (£50)
Hat: James'
Earrings: Vintage - Handed down
Scarf: Vintage - Thrifted (£1)
Coat: Vintage - Handed down
Belt: Vivian of Holloway (£5)
Estimated Total: £67/$92
Estimated Total (- shoes): £17/$24
Day 5
James: For a long day at the office I wore a three piece black suit, with black shoes and a black bowler hat. Though I am not usually a fan of black shoes, preferring more interesting brown brogues or two tones, it must be noted that black suits are the only exception. Wearing brown shoes with a black suit is unforgivable.
I complemented the suit with a white shirt and silk pocket square adding a red tie for a tiny bit of colour. I think it is important when wearing a black suit not to wear a dark or black tie, it often makes the look a little too somber.
I have to say that this suit is perhaps one of my favourites. Though it is classically black, the lining of the jacket is 'duck egg blue' as is the back of the waistcoat, this hidden element of colour gives a more lively element to the classic black suit.
The bowler hat was said to have been produced in 1849 for the company James Locke & Co (where my own hat is from. The hats were originally designed for gamekeepers to wear to protect from low hanging branches. Gamekeepers on estates formally wore top hats but the height of them caused them to easily be knocked off. Within the 19th and 20th Centuries the hat became used by London businessmen known as 'city gents' who also carried thinly rolled umbrellas. Today these hats remain only in the stereotypes of 'the British gent,' which I suppose I am portraying here with bowler hat and umbrella in hand.
Suit: Charles Tyrwhitt
Shirt: Charles Tyrwhitt
Tie: Vintage
Silk handkerchief: Gifted
Umbrella: Charles Tyrwhitt
Hat: Lock & Co. Vintage - Handed Down
Jeordy: While James was busy doing big-boy things, I spent another day at the library. I wore my tweed trousers again, this time cloaked by my daring red coat, and black felt hat and black heels. Together these items made a simple, comfortable and chic look.
I paired the heather-grey tweed trousers with a cream blouse and baby blue cashmere sweater. I felt equally comfortable commuting to the library and hunched over my laptop for hours. My darling little black felt hat protected me from the rain (and disguised another day of uncurled hair) and paired nicely with my black Aerosole heels.
This was the first day I forgot to put lipstick on before leaving the flat, which was seen as any lady's prerequisite for going out. Women's air-raid pyjamas even had a special lipstick pocket to keep a dedicated tube in. Whoops!
Blouse: Thrifted (~$10)
Sweater: Gifted
Trousers: Vivian of Holloway (£59)
Shoes: Aerosoles (~$50)
Hat: Vintage - Thrifted (~$15)
Coat: H&M - Thrifted ($8)
Estimated Total: £117/$163
Estimated Total (- shoes): £82/$113
Day 6
James: Day 6 saw an easier, more casual look for a cold day. The wide grey corduroy trousers, used for the worker look, are comfortable and warm. Paired with a thick white knitted jumper and my Grandfather's WWII RAF coat, this was a warm, vintage, casual outfit.
The Royal Air Force (RAF) also adopted changes in the 1930's. Their uniforms were in a blue-grey colour opposed to the Army's olive green. This RAF greatcoat was introduced at the same time. The coat was issued to officers of the Royal Air Force for field duty but was not worn during flight. The length of the coat made it impractical to be worn inside the aircraft. Instead pilots wore short brown leather jackets with fur lining which were warm and would not soak up water on emergency landings.
Shoes: Vintage - Handed Down
Trousers: Vintage
Coat: Vintage - Handed Down
Sweater: Stolen from a friend
Jeordy: For our exhilarating trip to get potatoes at the local shop on Day 6, I wore a very simple and warm ensemble. I donned my green tweed jacket, this time with collar turned up to protect against the wind; the vintage Russian wool scarf, this time as a proper babushka would wear it; black leather gloves and my two-toned flats.
It's true that women spent most of their shoed hours in heels, but flats were common, especially for women in the workplace. The two-toned brogue flats so many vintage women (including myself) wear are not strictly authentic. Men would have worn them and women wore similar styles (saddle shoes) or two toned heels. Even so, the aesthetic stands, so these wonderful comfortable shoes were worn.
Under the jacket I wore this simple and timeless dark green sweater from Primark. I paired it with my favourite wool skirt, which has been featured time and time again on our fashion posts.
Sweater: Primark (£7)
Skirt: Vintage - Thrifted (~$10)
Shoes: Bjorn ($30)
Headscarf: Vintage - Thrifted (£1)
Jacket: Thrifted (~$15)
Gloves: Gifted
Estimated Total: £48/$66
Estimated Total (- shoes): £26/$36
Day 7
James: For our last day, we went out for brunch and went to the pictures. I wore a warm brown tweed suit with a green and cream checked jumper underneath, typical of the time. I added a dark blue tie to match the dark blue check of the suit. A pair of smart brown brogues completed the look and kept all the brown tones tied together.
The suit may not be vintage, despite the vintage style, but the suits lining is filled with vintage passport stamps.
I have always had a passion for suit linings, and this one is one of my favourites. It was customary for travellers undergoing long journeys on trains, ships, or planes to wear tweed as a warm, durable material that doesn't stain or wrinkle easily. A tweed suit is therefore my go-to travel suit, and the travel stamp lining couldn't be more appropriate.
Suit: Cavani
Jumper: Vintage
Shirt: Charles Tyrwhitt
Tie: Vintage - Gifted
Jeordy: Since we were going to the pictures I got dressed up in my Sunday Best. The temperature when we left the flat was just below freezing so I re-wore my warm and reliable navy-blue WWII coat. You can see the rows of beautiful brass buttons well in this photo.
It was shockingly sunny, meaning I broke out the sunglasses for the first time this year! I accessorised with an optimistically sunny yellow scarf and red-orange lipstick (very en vogue in the 1940s, and especially recommended for redheads) to offset the darkness of the navy-blues, and grabbed my vintage two-toned purse to complement the brown heeled ankle-boots.
The dress is vintage from the late 1940s, which accounts for the fullness of the skirt. Its the best vintage piece I have, with very little damage or wear, a matching fully adjustable belt, and matching fabric buttons. The material is sheer navy-blue cotton with hand-painted white polkadots, and it has a built in slip.
I wore it with costume pearls (plastic jewellery was all the rage, and all people could afford) and pearl earrings, as well as my fluffy and warm vintage mink cap. The hat was yet another clever ruse to avoid curling my hair while retaining that 40s chic look.
The bright, bold, and fun contrast seam stockings I usually wear, and most vintage-loving women adore, didn't become the style until the 1950s. Before then, flesh coloured or slightly darker stockings with subtle monochromic seam lines were all the rage. I felt it was an appropriate day to bust mine out, for that glamorous feeling during our day out on the town.
Dress: Vintage - Gifted
Stockings: Betty Page Lingerie - Thrifted ($8) Shoes: Thrifted (£50)
Hat: Vintage - Thrifted (€15/
Sunglasses: ATTCL (£12)
Earrings: Gifted
Scarf: Vintage - Handed down
Necklace: Thrifted (£2)
Coat: Vintage - Thrifted (~$25)
Gloves: Primark (£8)
Purse: Vintage - Thrifted (~$20)
Estimated Total: £128/$176
Estimated Total (- shoes): £78/$108
In addition to dressing the part, James and I did our best to enact it. We only listened to music from the 1940s or before, sometimes on our laptops, but especially on the record player. We even spent part of an afternoon listening to our record of Churchill's Wartime Speeches. We didn't use our headphones to listen on public transport either. We started out not watching films or Netflix, but that only lasted a few days. In my defence, in the time we spent binge-watching RuPaul reruns, I was sewing and mending things. The majority of our time was spent reading for essays, an almost timeless activity, despite the fact it was mediated through our laptops.
